This is Highly Recommend, a column dedicated to what we’re eating, drinking, and buying. Here, Emma Laperruque writes about the affordable toaster that’s the highlight of her morning routine.
As a general rule, I do not believe in single-use tools or appliances. I do not own a grapefruit knife, or cherry pitter, or a garlic press, or one of those Medieval-looking slicers that tortures a hard-boiled egg. But a toaster is my exception.
Yes, there are infinite ways to toast bread: a skillet, a broiler, a grill. Yet none of them are easier or breezier than a toaster, especially if you have a good one. And in my humble opinion, I have the best.
Best does not mean expensive. In fact, in this case, it’s just the opposite.
There are a lot of fancy toasters out there, ready to set you back hundreds of dollars, with their sleek design and nifty features. This one from Smeg with a “retro style aesthetic” is $240. This one from Revolution with a touchscreen and “patented InstaGLO® technology” is $345. This one from Wolf Gourmet with “shade selector, bagel, and defrost settings” is $478!
But my favorite is $50—yes, $50—and it comes with the niftiest feature of all: a see-through window, which lets you watch your toast toast. Didn’t know you needed this in your life? I didn’t either. Turns out, it is hard to overstate how mesmerizing and soothing this is, like lying in a hammock and staring at the clouds.
And it’s practical too. Thanks to the window, I can get my sourdough slice or English muffin exactly how I like it: golden brown flirting with burnt, crispy but not crunchy. The extra wide slot (great for bagels), easy-to-clean crumb tray (just pull out and wipe down), and practical buttons (like defrost, cancel, and reheat) don’t hurt either.
My other countertop appliances are more multi-purpose, for sure, but it’s my toaster that I look forward to seeing when I get out of bed and wander into the kitchen for sustenance. Single-use isn’t such a bad thing if it’s used every day.